Scott & Tanya Card RV9A build log (N4822C)

I broke out the second tube of RTV to fill a few more holes around the baffling and engine. Then I got out all of the ignition wires to start figuring out how I was going to route them. It is worth noting that I’m doing dual P-mags with aircraft plugs. The ignition wires that emagair ships are not shielded as are “normal” aircraft ignition wires. As such, they need to be installed in such a way to keep them separated from each other in parallel runs. This is pretty easily done as shown in the instructions but it is a bit more time consuming than just bundling them together. I got out my overhaul manual to see what the normal wire to mag routing schematic looked like.

 

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

 

While the baffles were off, I riveted on the spacer block that I made for the part behind cylinder #4. I think I was giving some RTV time to setup before I handled the baffles for final installation so I went to the local mom&pop hardware store to get some brass 1/8″NTP fittings for the gascolator quick drain extension. Worked out great.
Back to the baffles… They went back on the engine for the last time and I proceeded to fill most of the gaps with more RTV. I used some cut firesleeve around the prop governor oil line to fill the majority of the hole in the baffle. I did a wrap of safety wire to hold it there and finished off with more RTV. I’m quite pleased with how that came out. Finally I figured I might as well install the oil cooler. The next thing is routing and installation of oil cooler hoses and ignition wires. This actually feels like progress. Soon, I’ll do a little more trimming of the plenum and see if I want to put any more layers of glass on the inlet ears that I made.

 

  

  

  

  

  

 

I got the left side EGT and CHT probes wired up and secured as well as the GRT fuel flow sensor.

 

  

  

  

 

I have finalized the connections of the EGT and CHT probes on the right two cylinders. I tested to make sure the sensors read a change in temp by holding the heat gun up to them after installation. Yep, saw an immediate change in the readout on the instrument. Much fun!

 

  

  

  

 

After the RTV dried on the the ends of the firesleeve, I installed them on the hoses and secured the ends. I mainly used the clamps from ACS that are meant for this but also experimented with using safety wire. I think the safety wire end looks just fine. The clamps are a couple of dollars each. I did the “final” install of some of the hoses.
I installed the heat muff on the right exhaust tail pipe. Not rocket science at all. Then I moved my attention to the carb heat muff. It needed to be trimmed about 3/4″. I also decided to re-route the wires for the carb temp sensor. I previously had them routed up to meet the starter and alternator routing. That put them too close to the exhaust pipes for my taste. So I re-routed down along the carb heat control cable.